GENERAL ROUTE
1. BASECAMP 9,000 feet - wide valley
route 7 km, gentle hills, 2 or 3 filled crevasses;
2. CAMP 1 10,000 feet - several possibilities of camps from 10,000 to 11,000 feet but avalanche concerns from big slope run-outs, best site approximately 1 km from steep ramp and in center of the trench;
-route 6 km, first one km is flat , then steep ramp , at its crest is 2 bridged crevasses, flat section, then 1 moderate hill;
3. CAMP 2 13,500 feet - King Col
Camps from 13,000 (halfway up moderate hill to) to 13,500 site (base of headwall but away from serac fall) can be windy on the col but then have good view of headwall route 2 ½ km;
a) up headwall, approx.45 degrees for 700 feet, with crampons on if hard snow or Z turns with skis and skins but no rope or sled;
b) rope on, route finding difficulties through seracs and crevasses;
c) gradual to moderate and continuous climb passing over several bridged crevasses;
4. CAMP 3 15,800 feet
- camps or cache at 15,000 feet but crevasses camp at 15,800 is in bowl below football field
route 2 ½ km;
a) up a moderate hill, cross several big bridged crevasses, then on to the flat section called the football field , then a moderate climb;
5. CAMP 4 17,100 feet
Camp below Prospector’s Pass is a very long, long day (minimum 16 - 20 hours) if try to go over pass, climb the peak and return to this camp, would need to be in tremendous shape ,well acclimatized and have no mistakes, cooler temperatures but still sunny, windy
-route 4km.
a) moderate climb to pass at 18,000 ft., take climbing skins off , descend northward then traverse southeast across side hills and hard snow gradually losing altitude , down to plateau
6. CAMP 5 17,500 feet
Camp at base of Mt. Russel (need some landmark as can be windy area) quite cold temperatures on plateau, less sun , more wind. Camp on plateau at lower elevations, possible two different routes to summit both 6 km long;
a) if camped on plateau then head straight for main summit;
b) if camped near Russel Peak, then gradual climb toward West Peak then may traverse around the north side of this peak and keep altitude, or climb up and over West Peak then descending 1000 ft before climbing main peak;
TRIP IDEAS
CLOTHING AND SLEEP STUFF:
- light colored mesh ball cap & bandanna for sun protection;
- use vapor barrier socks if poor drying conditions;
- therm-a-rest & closed cell foamy excellent combination;
- generally warm low down and cold up high, flexible clothing;
TRAVEL:
- start early and avoid mid-day heat as it zaps energy and lose lots of fluids (depending upon temperatures);
- think about 1 sled on plateau, helps transport knee injuries;
- sleds go easy to Prospectors except headwall;
- ferry loads with extra clothes left at high cache & use garbage bags, stuff sacs at caches;
- warm ski skins against torso if cold & poor adhesion;
- plan to be in camp 1500 hrs , then dry gear 2 hours if heat and sweating is a problem;
CAMPS:
- need snow walls, mark latrine & snow/H2O collection;
- secure gear at sites as wind & snowfall, ski poles planted by handles so don’t blow away;
- need water storage container, black garbage bag with snow left outside during daytime;
- thermos critical, hot H2O in morning lessens time spent over stove before travel;
- tent vestibule cooking site if windy;
- sponge for tent roof if hoarfrost or bivy sac to cover gear inside tent when melts and gone traveling for the day;
- cache spare food, fuel , gear at each camp and lighten load as go higher;
- food often need variety, seasoning, salt and expect to high grade meals for higher camps;
